Eyelash Extension Artist Tips to Match Styles with Eye Shapes

Matching the right lash extension style to each client's eye shape is the difference between a set that looks custom-designed and one that looks generic. This guide covers the key characteristics of each eye shape and the specific curl, length, and lash map recommendations that work best for each.

How to Identify Eye Shape During Consultation

• Ask the client to look straight ahead with a relaxed expression
• Observe the visible eyelid crease (or lack of it), the outer corner angle, and the eye's horizontal vs vertical proportions
• Take a photo for reference — eye shape is easier to assess in a photo than in person
• Note any asymmetry — many clients have slightly different eye shapes on each side

Almond Eyes

• Characteristics: Slightly upswept outer corner; balanced horizontal and vertical proportions; visible eyelid crease
• Best style: Any — almond eyes suit all lash maps; cat eye, doll eye, and natural all work
• Best curl: C, CC, or D depending on desired drama level
• Best length: 10–14mm; no restrictions

Round Eyes

• Characteristics: Visible white above or below the iris; more circular than oval; outer corner at same level as inner corner
• Best style: Cat eye or kitten lash map — elongates the eye horizontally
• Best curl: C curl — avoids adding more roundness; avoid D and DD
• Best length: Longer outer corner (13–15mm) vs shorter inner corner (9–10mm)

Hooded Eyes

• Characteristics: Excess skin folds over the eyelid crease; lash line not fully visible when eyes are open
• Best style: Open eye or natural map — avoid cat eye (outer corner lashes disappear under the hood)
• Best curl: L, LC, or M curl — flat base lifts away from the lid; upward bend ensures visibility
• Best length: 10–13mm maximum — very long lashes curl back into the hood

Monolid Eyes

• Characteristics: No visible eyelid crease; flat eyelid surface; common in East Asian clients
• Best style: Center-focused doll eye map — creates depth and dimension
• Best curl: D or M curl — maximum upward lift for visibility from the front
• Best length: 10–13mm; longer lashes can weigh down monolid lashes

Downturned Eyes

• Characteristics: Outer corner sits lower than inner corner; creates a sad or tired appearance
• Best style: Cat eye map with emphasis on outer corner lift
• Best curl: CC or D curl at outer corners; C curl at inner corners
• Best length: 13–16mm outer corner; 9–10mm inner corner — the contrast corrects the downward angle

Deep-Set Eyes

• Characteristics: Eyes set deeper into the skull; prominent brow bone; lashes can appear to point backward
• Best style: Natural or open eye map — brings lashes forward
• Best curl: C or CC curl — forward sweep makes lashes more visible; avoid D and DD (curl back toward brow bone)
• Best length: 10–13mm; moderate length prevents lashes from touching the brow bone